Marketing analysis of the market of phytopreparations and phytocosmetics for the treatment of dermatoses

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Introduction. The skin is a barrier between the body and the environment, performing, in addition to the protective functions of metabolism, reception, thermoregulation, excretion, resorption, and is also an organ of immunity and participates in water–salt metabolism [1]. The skin is extremely vulnerable to external and internal irritants. Phytopreparations and phytocosmetics are a significant group of drugs that are gaining popularity in the treatment of skin diseases, used for the prevention and treatment of mainly chronic pathologies, as well as to maintain skin health during periods of remission and rehabilitation.

Phytopreparations are ready–made medicines approved in accordance with the established procedure, which contain biologically active substances of plant origin or medicinal plant raw materials and are used for the treatment or prevention of various human diseases [2].

Currently, many designations of "natural cosmetics" are used: organic, natural, bio, ecological, etc. This is due to the fact that there are no uniform standards and a single term "natural cosmetics" in the world, so these definitions are interpreted differently in each country. International certification standards mainly use two concepts: organic and natural cosmetics. These types of products have the following qualities: they contain up to 95% natural ingredients; the composition contains no synthetic coloring and flavored components, petrochemical products, genetically modified and synthesized elements; animal testing is not carried out during the development process; artificial fertilizers are not used.

Organic cosmetics are top–level natural cosmetics that meet more stringent requirements. Thus, organic cosmetics do not contain components of animal origin, and it should also contain at least 10% organic components, while natural cosmetics contain at least 5% [3].

GOST R ISO 16128-1-2022 "Natural perfumery and cosmetic products" defines natural, organic ingredients and ingredients of organic origin:

Natural ingredients are ingredients of products obtained exclusively from plants, animals, microorganisms or minerals using physical, enzymatic and other processes. The category of natural ingredients and ingredients of natural origin includes plants (including fungi and algae), minerals, animals, and microorganisms. This list does not include products derived from organic fuels (petroleum and petroleum products).
Organic are natural ingredients obtained through organic farming or harvesting in the wild in accordance with national legislation or equivalent international standards.
Ingredients of organic origin are ingredients of products of organic or mixed (organic and natural) origin, obtained using certain chemical and/or biological processes for the purpose of chemical modification, which do not contain components of organic fuels [4].
However, the standard does not provide information on natural and organic cosmetics, and does not set requirements for it, which is a serious problem in ensuring its quality.

The purpose of the study is to analyze the Russian market of phytopreparations and phytocosmetics for the treatment of dermatoses and to study the awareness of students of the Faculty of Pharmacy about natural and organic cosmetics.

Materials and methods of research. The range of phytopreparations and phytocosmetics is formed using the state register of medicines, official websites of manufacturers of herbal preparations and natural cosmetics. The assessment of the level of awareness of students was carried out on the basis of an online sociological survey using the Internet. The survey was attended by 5th year students of the Faculty of Pharmacy of Kursk State Medical University (KSMU). The number of respondents was 52 people. This volume of the surveyed population is explained by the use of the small sample method in order to conduct pilot studies on the issue under study. Scientific publications presented in open access electronic library systems were studied. Methods such as structural, systemic, logical, graphoanalytic, sociological, and content analysis were used.

The results of the study. The first stage of the study was to analyze the market of herbal preparations and natural cosmetics used to treat skin diseases. On its basis, an assortment has been formed, represented by 195 trade names and 266 products, among which 115 products relate to phytopreparations, 151 products – to phytocosmetics. Next, a macro contour of the target segment of the Russian pharmaceutical market of natural products for the treatment of dermatoses was developed (Fig. 1). The macro contour has the following characteristics:

- in terms of composition, these are mainly combined products – 68.1 % of the assortment;

- on the basis of belonging to the group, cosmetics predominate (56.8%);

- according to the form of release, the majority is in the form of liquid dosage forms (42.5%), among which tinctures (8.7%) and oils (8.7%) predominate;

- on the basis of production - domestic products (86.5%).

At the second stage of the study, a sociological survey was conducted among 5th year students of the Faculty of Pharmacy of KSMU. The results showed that, according to the majority of respondents, cosmetics with a completely or almost completely natural composition belong to natural cosmetics (63.5%). 40.4% of respondents consider only organic cosmetics natural, the ingredients of which are developed from products of controlled organic farming (Fig. 2). It should be noted that the study of scientific literature and regulatory documentation allows us to conclude that all the answers to this question are only partially correct.

 

Figure 1 – Macro-contour of the range of phytopreparations and phytocosmetics for the treatment of dermatoses (%)

 

Figure 2 - The structure of the answers to the question: Which of the statements most closely reflects what you understand by natural cosmetics? (%)

 

When analyzing the answers to the question of how respondents conclude about the naturalness of cosmetics (Fig. 3), 84.6% indicated that they proceed from the components included in the composition. Only 26.9% of respondents pay attention to information about certification. However, 42.3%, when choosing natural cosmetics, focus on the labels on the packaging "natural", "environmentally friendly", not taking into account that this text is an environmental marketing technique that evokes associations with something natural, useful ("green camouflage", "greenwashing"). Therefore, such inscriptions, if they are not certification marks, do not reveal the true origin of the products.

Next, the respondents were asked to choose several ingredients that can be part of natural cosmetics (Fig. 4). The correct answers to this question are vegetable oils (19.2% of the answers) and AHA-, BHA-, PHA-acids (21.3% of the answers). The rest of the respondents indicated incorrect or a combination of correct and incorrect ingredients. It is alarming that a significant part of the respondents noted mineral oils (42.3%), phthalates (17.3%) and even formaldehyde (11.5%) as natural components. In the answers to the question about the percentage of natural ingredients in natural and organic cosmetics, the majority of survey participants noted from 80% (28.8%) and from 90% (21.2%).

 

Figure 3 – The structure of the answers to the question: How do you understand that cosmetics are natural? (%)

 

Figure 4 – The structure of the answers to the question: What ingredients, in your opinion, can be part of natural cosmetics? (%)

 

Then the respondents were offered a list of domestic brands of natural cosmetics to select those that they know. According to the results of the survey, 26.9% of respondents do not know about any of the brands represented. The most recognizable brands are "Crimean Rose" (28.8%), "KORA" (26.9%), "Verbena" (23.1%) and "Mirrolla" (23.1%).

Thus, as a result of the conducted sociological research, it was found that students of the Faculty of Pharmacy of KSMU most often understand natural cosmetics with a content of natural ingredients of 80.0 – 90.0%. Respondents do not distinguish between natural and organic cosmetics, none named the key differences between them. The question about the components of organic cosmetics showed that not all respondents understand the ingredients acceptable for use in its production.

Conclusion. The conducted marketing analysis showed that the target segment of phytopreparations and phytocosmetics for the treatment of dermatoses is represented on the domestic pharmaceutical market, which allows cosmetologists and dermatologists (together with pharmacists and patients) to select therapy individually for each person. The results of the study demonstrated the need to develop regulatory documentation for natural cosmetics. Obviously, the lack of clarity and understanding of the differences between natural and organic cosmetics is due precisely to the lack of a clear interpretation and regulated requirements for them. In addition, within the framework of import substitution, the promotion of domestic brands of natural cosmetics is relevant, aimed at raising public awareness of its distinctive features and advantages.

About the authors

Olga Igorevna Mogunova

Kursk State Medical University

Author for correspondence.
Email: oljuska97@gmail.com
ORCID iD: 0009-0006-3502-889X

student

Russian Federation, 305000,Russia, Kursk, K. Marx Street, 3

Tatyana A. Oleiynikova

Kursk State Medical University

Email: ol_tanja@mail.ru
ORCID iD: 0000-0001-7354-8286

Candidate of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Associate Professor of the Department of Organization and Management of Pharmacy

Russian Federation, 305000,Russia, Kursk, K. Marx Street, 3

References

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